A Fistful of Dollars
Our favoured local, back in Rantepao in the Tana Toraja, was the hangout of the local Guides Association, a Teamsteresque conglomerate of the most amiable...
EscapeArtistes Blog
Rafting the Maiting River
We spent our last day in the Tana Toraja whitewater rafting. An activity, which in the mind of the child, now forms a kind of...
13 Things You’ll Learn Travelling Indonesia
1: There is a Nadir for In-Vehicle Entertainment Audio-visual torture of various kinds is an intrinsic part of the South-East Asian travel experience. From bootleg...
Souls Growing Skywards with the Trees
At Pana, the cave graves were easy to find, half of them broken open, looming out of a granite slab in the oncoming dusk and...
Video: Dancing Clownfish
This little guy was defending his nest and his baby just left of the dock in Pulau Derawan: he’s straight out of Finding Nemo. He’s...
Buffalo Soldiers: Living for Death in the Tana Toraja
“Are funerals like this in London?” asks my new Torajan friend. The dead man’s drum-shaped coffin emerges from the matrimonial bedroom where he has “slept”,...
Colours of Makassar
Makassar, Indonesia. The capital of Sulawesi. A hectic, noisy port city, where even the scuzziest scenes are full of equatorial colour. Even the trucks, parked...
6 Signs That Say You’re a Long Way from Home
1: A helpful guide to museum etiquette. Thanks to all at the museum in Fort Rotterdam, Makassar, for these handy hints on how to behave...
Turtle Island, Indonesia
***Researching? For more up-to-date information on Pulau Derawan and the Derawan islands, including Maratua, head on over to pulaus.com, which also has current info on...
Eight Months, Seven Countries
As Z and I enter our eighth month of continuous travel, here’s one amazing thing we’ve done in each month of the year. January: Making...