On Reading Brave New World in Singapore

Brave New World is one of those books that… Well, I won’t exactly say that everyone has read it, but I’d imagine most people feel vaguely guilty that they haven’t read it, and mean to rectify this omission at the first opportunity, honest, and will totes get around to reading it some time very soon, and may well have had it on the Kindle for a while.

Or maybe everybody HAS read it, apart from me.

Anywise, Brave New World is the sort of book that should be on the school curriculum, along with 1984, and Fahrenheit 451, but isn’t, perhaps because of the sex and the drugs, perhaps because of the rather patchy prose. It’s a utopian dystopia, conceived by Aldous Huxley in the 1920s, thirty years or so before he got into hallucinogens, that holds up remarkably well in the era of the information revolution, despite not predicting it in the slightest.

And it’s stunningly well suited to Singapore, which is where I bought it. Because if there’s one thing that Singapore is undeniably great for, it’s book-shopping.

Clarke Quay, Singapore

Now, it seems odd to write this at a time when many Singaporeans are grieving Lee Kuan Yew, founder of South-East Asia’s longest-running one-party state, a man who dragged Singapore out of poverty into its position as one of the world’s wealthiest nations, scattering human rights with gay abandon as he did so.

But there’s more than a touch of the Brave New Worlds about Singapore. In Brave New World, it’s shopping – consumption – that keeps society running. Mantras about the value of consumption are instilled into children from the foetal stage.

I have never, ever seen a society as focused on shopping as Singapore. In Vegas, you navigate the tourist zone by way of travelators through casinos: the carefully timeless, flatlining interiors substitute for streets and pavements, so much so that it’s entirely possible to spend entire days and nights without encountering natural light.

In Singapore, it’s malls that provide that perpetual, disorientating daytime. To leave them you typically burrow further downwards towards the MRT, rather than upwards towards street level: street level is, largely, a decorative irrelevance if you know downtown well enough. People eat in malls: breakfast, lunch, snacks, even fine dining. They shop in malls. They even, I’d imagine, date in malls.

And consumption remains the lifeblood of the city-state. Or, as Brave New World has it, “The more stitches, the less riches.” AKA, don’t mend. Throw out, and buy anew.

But what strikes me as most Huxleyesque about Singapore is the perky, lightly passive aggressive reminders to do one’s best for the great consumerist society.

In Huxley’s Brave New World foetuses are predestined from conception to one very specific class of society, right down to retarding their development with alcohol, if required. And, although Singapore is famously multi-racial, with no fewer than four official languages, sadly not including Singlish, it’s noticeable that street sweepers, builders and manual labourers tend to be more, well, tanned than the folk who work in finance and run the government.

But what strikes me as most Huxleyesque about Singapore is the perky, lightly passive aggressive reminders to do one’s best for the great consumerist society.

Singaporeans venturing on the city’s manicured parklands are repeatedly reminded to pick up their dogs’ poo (not “faeces”, not “waste”, not “mess” but that coy, infantilising “poo”). The Singapore Kindness Movement – a government initiative that Orwell might have appreciated – delivers tooth-hurtingly sweet reminders “Together, we can make someone’s day! Be gracious!” to encourage folk to give way when getting on the metro and similar.

Amid all this, Singaporeans live surrounded by ads that hero the Chinese work ethic in a distinctively Singlish vein. Pictures of young, fair-skinned, bright-eyed Singaporean women pushing for that dream career advertise job services bringing the latest career opportunities to your phone: most of them, it seems, in marketing.

Society’s expectations are written very, very large in Singapore. And they’re, fundamentally, pretty simple. Get a good job. Earn money. Then spend it, ideally in a mall.

“I know! Let’s balance a giant banana 70 storeys up on three wonky pillars then put some giant light-up trees behind it! Pass the bong!”

Architecturally, Singapore is stunning. Yet what’s odd about that stellar skyline, those trippy waterfront confections – “I know! Let’s balance a giant banana 70 storeys up on three wonky pillars then put some giant light-up trees behind it! Pass the bong!” – is that it faces inwards. This is a port city. A marine nation. And yet the city looks not out to sea, but inwards.

Further, in the vein of Brave New World, much of Singapore’s heritage has either been replaced with tower blocks, or disneyfied into abstraction. Neither Centrifugal Bumble-Puppy nor Escalator Squash Courts would sit amiss in this city where nobody walks.

On some levels, I love the cleanliness of Singapore, the absence of rough edges: I’m from London, a grimy city, and live in litter-strewn Bali. On others, when I wander through the candy-coloured tourist miasma of Clarke Quay, the reinvented, manufactured riverfront, a waterfront nightlife area both emasculated and defanged, I’d like to see a can or two floating in the river, a few fag butts on the street, a drunk or two grappling with a doorman.

Ports are not supposed to be well-behaved places. They’re just…. NOT.

It is a brave new world, Singapore. I love to visit our friends in their green and leafy suburb; I love those little first world comforts, like pavements, and public transport, and zebra crossings, and manicured flowerbeds, and fresh air; I love the way that everything works, that there are concierges in the malls, taxi drivers who don’t over-charge, and minimal crime.

And, at the same time, I find it stifling. I’m always glad to visit Singapore. And I’m always glad to leave.


8 Responses

  1. Brilliantly written – I really enjoyed this. Singapore reminds me so much of Dubai, where I lived for seven years. I felt like I should want to live there forever and settle down and bring up kids – zero crime, clinically clean, massive apartments are just a few of the perks – but something feels so odd about being somewhere that on the surface looks so perfect. Perhaps it’s because I know what sacrifices you have to make in order to live that ‘dream.’ Zero rights, censored media, no unions and a visa that’s tied to the whims of your employer to name a few. I’d rather live somewhere more raw, more real…

    • Theodora says:

      And imagine if you’re one of the domestic workers that support that pristine appearance in either Singapore or Dubai…. I am fond of Singapore – I’ve not been to Dubai, and I very much doubt I’d like it — but, yes, it’s that apparent perfection that grates so very much.

  2. Pip says:

    So true. My parents lived there at the end of the sixties. We grew up with fantastic stories of the bustle, energy and drama of Singapore. We finally visited it with my mother in 2007. On the third day she just stopped in the middle of a mall and sadly exclaimed, “I could be anywhere. Nothing of the Singapore I loved is left”. The robot like manner of everyone streaming to work particularly struck her. Very polite, well dressed but you felt just under the surface there was terror in case anyone made a scene. I have suggested she might go to Ho Chi Minh City for a flavour of old Singapore but haven’t convinced her yet. Do you have any thoughts of an alternative or better city to capture 60’s Singapore?

    • Theodora says:

      Oh gosh – so: Chinese traders, chaos, shophouses, hubbub, dynamism, drama, energy, fishwives… Yes, I think HCMC could be a VERY good pick for the loopy energy, despite the communism (I’d say Hanoi, but the climate is wrong); there are market towns in Borneo with a similar deranged energy, but they’re too small; Penang is too sheeny-shiny, as is Melaka, although she might still enjoy the new Melaka, even if it is tourist (there are kopitiams, and shophouses, that might feel very familiar); KL, by now, is too Malay. There are, of course, lots of crazy Chinese cities, but they’re really all too mainlandy, and high rise – though if she loved Singapore, she’d love mainland China today…. Long story? I’d say Melaka and HCMC. And try and get her out to Yangon before it all changes…

  3. Sofia says:

    I honestly haven’t stayed long in Singapore.. just a brief visit to my brother who’s been working there for like 4 or 5 years, and he seems to be enjoying his stay, so good for him. It’s a very small country, city, and in less than a week, I got tired of staring at it. After that, I head straight to Kuala Lumpur, and then Penang, and Phuket.

  4. raj says:

    Nice Information, SIngapore is my next travel plan.

  5. Konstantin says:

    I recently discovered your travel blog and I am very happy to see someone who digs more than two millimeters beneath the surface and actually processes experiences with sensitivity and intellect. I appreciate that you actually work to produce something of literary value and share your impressions with language that does credit to your adventures. Besides, I have been to most places that you write about and I really enjoy seeing them through another pair of eyes.

    I appreciate that you added some balance to your view on Singapore. I have heard so many people complain that Singapore is sterile, commercialized, not authentic, Americanized and somehow “not Asia”. I have always thought this to be somewhere in the range between funny and complete rubbish, conceived by people who cannot adapt their expectations to appreciate places as they are, which is one of the advantages of seeing the world. So according to many, it turns out that Asian people do not have a legitimate right to improve their lives because by doing this, they disappoint our expectations. If it is not filthy, noisy and people do not sell live chickens in the main street, it is no longer authentic. If a rice bowl costs more than 50 cents, it is commercialized. If the locals are no longer satisfied to wear sarongs or turbans, it is Americanized.

    The thought about censorship and limited human rights suffocates me, especially in more isolated countries, which do not really offer anything in return. But having worked throughout Asia, lived in China, slept and dined in Mongolian gers, had food poisoning in villages without doctors, spent months at a time working in disgusting factory towns, I actually find it refreshing to spend a few days at a squeaky clean city, where for a change I can eat three times a day without wondering about the taxonomy of germs in my plate or how showering with local water makes me dirtier than before. And walk! Yes, who would have guessed that there is a place where crossing the street is not an act of utter stupidity?

    One should love Asia as it is, with all its painful variety and embarrassing contradictions. The key is to see all of it and not to expect that one small part of it will collect all its exotic traits in a convenient format that fits most people’s summer vacation. And not to deny the right of local people to try and have better lives, as they see it. To be fair to Singapore, it may be living in the shadow of shopping malls, but it is living. Unlike Vegas or Disneyland, Singapore is alive from inside out, you can actually feel it breathing, digesting, sweating. It exists because people really need it to exist.

    One can actually spend a week there, without once entering a shopping mall (although skipping the huge Japanese bookstore in Orchard Road would be a pity).

    • Theodora says:

      Thanks for your thoughtful – and very complimentary! – comment. I agree Kinokuniya is a don’t-miss: it’s one of the world’s truly great bookshops, even though it’s shrunk slightly since it’s moved position within the mall. I guess why human rights springs out at me in Singapore is because it’s widely understood to be a functional multi-party “Western-style” democracy, and a flag-bearer for the rest of the region, which of course it isn’t. I shall try and write something fresh this week…