Another Day, Another Hospital

Zac wakes without a fuss at 4.45am for our next attempt at surgery, in a week that is rapidly falling apart.

This is the last time he’s going to have with his grandparents for a while, and we had thought today would be a day of quiet recuperation after an easy 15-minute op.

Instead, he and I are travelling three hours to the next provincial hospital. His grandparents have been waiting three days for a 24-hour FedEx delivery of brake pads for the car in which they are about to drive across Europe, and are also feeling the strain.

All of us, in fact, have long journeys ahead of us.

I decide not to even think about the practicalities of travelling solo with a post-operative child, and focus on the op itself.

I have a pile of deadlines, AWOL invoices to chase and, I imagine, a mountainous inbox. I try not to think about that either.

Let’s just say this is one of those times when location independence really isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.


It’s 8.30 when we arrive at the next hospital, a building framed by rusting scaffolding frozen in time by budget cuts, graffiti-ed plywood scarring the common areas, a bustle of Orthodox priests in tall black hats, bushy beards and voluminous robes, and… soldiers…

Lots of soldiers…

There are quite extraordinary numbers of soldiers standing outside.

Huh?

Have there been riots here?

Surely the sit-in isn’t until tomorrow?

What are all these soldiers doing here?


The Paediatric Embarrassing Medical Specialist works on the fourth floor, and the nurses tell me he will be on the ward at 10. We settle down on bus station seats to wait.

And wait.

At 9.45 I pop to the nursing station.

“Wait,” they tell me.

We wait.

This is Zac’s second successive morning on nil by mouth.

I know from the blood tests that he’s having a growth spurt (it’s all about the phosphates, fact fans!), and he needs all the calories he can get.

He stretches his skinny frame across the plastic seats and snoozes.

It’s a nice-looking ward, the Children’s Surgical Ward.

A little tired at the edges, but bright with Winnie the Pooh transfers, Little Mermaids and happy kittens. Lurid curtains and sunny orange paintwork should hurt the eyes but actually lift the spirit.

I’ll be much happier with Zac spending the night here than in the last ward, where the median age was 70.

Though I’d be happier still if we could get the surgery done today.

Still, I figure, beggars can’t be choosers.

And, with a sit-in scheduled for tomorrow, we’ll be lucky if we get this surgery done at all.


The Paediatric Embarrassing Medical Specialist is a lovely chap in his 50s, not that much taller than his patient, with a toothbrush moustache that reminds me irresistibly of a Greek Hercule Poirot, and a brisk concern that is quite phenomenally reassuring.

His English is better than my Greek, but hardly fluent.

“Hello,” I say, brandishing Zac’s records. “We spoke yesterday. My son has…”

“Yes,” he says. “Come.”

I hold a curtain round the bed to screen Zac from the rest of the room as the doctor performs his examination.

“Look,” he says, showing me. “Difficult! Very difficult! No paediatrician? Normally, two years…”

“It’s the same as Greece,” I say defensively, miming the required exam. “Paediatricians check. At birth. At three months. At six months. At two years… At two years, no problem.”

“I will try,” he says. “Tomorrow. Very difficult.”

“Tomorrow?” I say. “Will it be complete? Endaxi?”

“I don’t know,” he says. “I need to see what is there.”

He draws me a diagram. “What time?” I ask.

“9 or 10,” he says. “He stays here tonight.”

“Will I need two operations?” Zac asks, later.

“I don’t know yet,” I say. “It depends what he finds when he opens you up.”

This doesn’t feel like minor surgery any longer. Not in the slightest.


We enter, once again, on the admissions merry-go-round. Amazingly, Zac is being processed as an emergency to get the surgery done within our timeframe.

We traipse around a warren of rooms on the first floor, many of them full of soldiers.

There is not a lot of English spoken on this level.

Grafio?” I say hopefully, miming writing. “Grafis asthenon? Kinesis asthenon? Grafiki? Grafis? To grafio?

Eventually, a lady works out what I’m on about and sends us down to ground.

In the paediatric emergency room, a babble of Greek, Albanian and, I think, Roma, Zac’s hand is catheterised and yet more blood is taken.

He is weighed, coming in at 32 kilos.

I hand over my EHIC card and get Zac’s yellow slip. There’s much less spare capacity in the administration of this larger hospital than there was in the one down south, which serves a province with a population of barely 200,000 people, and must, in fact, be one of the largest employers in its province.

We go to the hospital shop for junk food. And then we return to the ward.


From the size of the families on the ward – there’s a Roma mother with four small children, only one of whom appears to be sick – it seems that Greek mothers stay on the ward to take over some of the routine nursing care. Which is probably why so few of the younger children cry.

Zac is put in a bright little room with two beds and its own bathroom, and pink curtains with cartoon characters. A nurse makes up a bed with sheets, a pillow and blankets, and dumps a blanket on the vinyl of the other bed.

“I? I hotel? I bed?” I say, in abysmal Greek. I point at each bed in turn. “I bed? Bay bed?”

“No hotel!” she says, followed by a flood of rapid Greek. (Greeks, like Turks, approach the language barrier like Anglophones. If you do not understand something the first time, they repeat it, louder.)

Result!

I’d been envisaging myself finding a hotel in town, staying on the ward as late as I can each evening, then waking up at 4am to be back on the ward. Instead, I’m right here with him. And, no, I don’t care whether I have sheets.

Zac has played well with the kids in my parents’ village across the language barrier, but a solo stay in hospital is a different matter altogether.


Zac beats me at draughts. I beat him at Connect Four. We read.

“I wish they hadn’t put the catheter in my left hand,” he says. “I can barely use the computer.”

Round dinner time, a nurse comes round with a tray, containing one huge chicken breast, half a lemon, soggy rice in a puddle of unsalted water, toast and a plain yoghurt.

Zac picks at the chicken. “Well,” he says, philosophically. “The food has to be really plain so that all the little kids eat it as well.”

I do another run to the shop. Tomorrow will be his third successive day with neither food nor fluids in the morning, and I really want to keep his calorie intake up. And if that means mainlining Twixes and Lemon Fanta, so be it.

We stay up till midnight to ensure he’s hydrated and fall asleep through the wail of the Roma toddler next door.


At 5am, a nurse comes round to take Zac’s temperature. Or, rather, switches all the lights on, and hands me a thermometer to do it.

By 8.30am, surgical preparations are in full swing. Zac’s in a neat, white surgical gown, looking very, very young, and very, very angelic. His surgery should happen before 10.

I emphasise the “should”.

This is, of course, his third morning of nil by mouth, his second time this week in a surgical gown, and a day of planned sit-ins by health service workers across the country.

9.15, and there’s an orderly in our little room, Zac’s on a gurney, we’re in the elevator, and headed, again, for surgery.

The orderly wheels him through the glazed doors.

“How many hour?” I say in rubbish Greek.

“One hour,” says the orderly. “Wait.”

I settle down on the orange plastic seats and try not to stress.


It’s a feat that I manage quite easily during the first hour. Zac’s a healthy eleven-year-old boy, with no allergies, a robust constitution and a high pain threshold, having a rare variation on a fundamentally routine op with an experienced specialist.

He has been X-rayed, weighed, ECG-d and tested to the hilt: the chance of anything going wrong, even under a general anaesthetic, is infinitesimally small.

I repeat this to myself a few times, mantra-style, and pick up my book.

By about 10.25, I’m starting to get antsy. I relocate to the surgery doors, watching men in scrubs coming and going, gurneys transferring from lift to ward…

You can tell, I think, if something’s going wrong in surgery.

Here there’s no urgency in the atmosphere, no haste in the pace. Everything feels routine. Neither too quiet nor too loud.

Which doesn’t stop me worrying, of course.


At 10.40, after he’s been in surgery for an hour and fifteen minutes, I decide it’s OK to grab a passing nurse. “My bay,” I say in abysmal Greek. “Sugary. OK? Sugary what time how many hour OK?”

“The kid?” she says in Greek. “OK! Ten minutes.”

I relax. Everything’s going to be fine. If the surgeon’s taking this long about it, he’ll be doing a good job.

And out Zac comes, on his trolley, with the orderly, whose face looks grave.

There is blood on the sheets and my little boy, my stoical little boy, my little boy who hasn’t cried at injections since he was two, who climbed out of the broken window of a crashed 4×4 without a squeak, who coped with an extraction at an Egyptian dentist without a murmur, is weeping silently with pain.

“I need painkillers, Mum,” he says. “Get me some painkillers. It really hurts.”

25 Responses

  1. Nilda says:

    Hi Theodora,
    I’ve been keeping up with your posts and love to read them….but lately I’m a bit confused, being a mom myself. Why on earth are you putting your child through surgery in countries where according to your posts things dont seem like they have it together. Dingy hospitals, hospitals in possible riot zones….I don’t get it. I have to say I kind of feel sorry for Zac and I wonder why you don’t just take him home, where there is decent medical service and your child is not at more risks than already needed by mere surgery and anesthetics, etc. Maybe I’m missing something, but weren’t you the mom who was livid over another mom posting the day her child died? And now you seem to be not really acting in Zac’s best interest, but just hoping to get all this over with so you can continue your travels. Forget the travel for a while, go home, take care of Zac’s health issues. Travel can wait and a child with a parent that the feasibility to take him to a decent hospital to get prompt and decent health care should not have to be dealing with the ordeals this poor child is dealing with. Sorry, I generally like your blogs but as a mom myself and a child advocate, I felt compelled to express my opinion. Tell Zac there’s people out there that he doesnt even know that are wishing him the best, and that he can recover in the comfort of his own home, bed and surroundings 🙂
    Nilda

    • Theodora says:

      Well, this is the thing, Nilda: it’s a minor health issue, not a major one, a minor surgery, not a major one, what should be routine childhood surgery (as my aunt initially observed, it should take a decent paediatric surgeon 15 minutes or so). And, the original plan, with the timing as it was, was that he had a bed and family around him at my parents’ house in Greece (two grandparents and his mother) in which to recover from what was supposed to be a very minor surgery.

      As you know, we’re nomadic. Which means that, unless we’re renting somewhere, as we did in Dahab, Ubud and Kunming, and will again in China, his own bed is wherever we are.

      Now, at home in the UK, we also have dingy hospitals: it’s the nature of state medical care that they are not luxurious places. (I don’t know if you saw the observation that the place where I delivered Zac, in London, had bin bags in the windows, or about the seething mob you can expect at casualty in a London hospital: health services across Europe are under pressure.) We also have huge waiting lists, which means it takes months to get surgery.

      For the record, I don’t think the health care he has received has been anything other than decent or prompt, with the exception of a sloppy initial examination. He’s seen specialists. He’s had successful surgery, and is, now recovering well.

      So… it’s not a straightforward option just to take him “home” (I’m not sure what you mean by this — rent a flat in London and sit on a waiting list for months awaiting surgery??? He’s had his own bed in Greece, his own bed in Dahab, his own bed in Ubud, but he doesn’t have his own bed in London any more.)

      The other thing which should have come through in the piece, and I apologise if it hasn’t, is the trip to Australia to see his Dad, which he’s been looking forward to, and for which flights have been booked, and which is his last chance this year to see his father, is reliant on flights to Bali from Istanbul and from Bali to Australia. We arranged that between us on the basis that the surgery would be done earlier this month, and that would be the natural time for them to see each other, after he’d recovered, which is why, unusually for us, we have a whole nexus of flights booked in.

      And, umm, yes, I found it odd that that mother posted the day her child died. Which is why this series is being written retrospectively…

      For the record, Zac thinks they’ve done a good job. If I’d known the operation was going to be as complicated as it has been, or that it would have been delayed, I think I’d have shifted flights around to allow for a longer recovery time, and got an apartment for a fortnight or so in which he could recover — but, as it is, I wasn’t going to stop Zac seeing his father for the remainder of the year (or, for that matter, from going to Bali, which he’s been itching to do) because of minor surgery.

    • Mary says:

      Nilda, This is the life we live! Injuries happen and small surgical things pop up. The healthcare in most of the world is wonderful, possibly better then in the US where I am from. It would be alarmist to spend a load of money in heading home.

      Home and their own bed is not something important to my children. Home is where we all are it makes no difference what the bed, town, or anything is.

      I am sure Theodora spoke with Zac about writing this series and I have no doubt that she did what was best for Zac! Your perspective is different from Theodora’s and mine but it doesn’t make either one right or wrong!

      Just because we live this nomadic life does NOT mean we need a child advocate…we are advocating for our children!

      • Theodora says:

        Thanks, Mary!

        And, yes, just picking up on your point about talking to Zac about it — which may have occurred to others — I have asked him about it, and I have shown him every single piece in the series before writing them, with the clear understanding that he can take anything out or tell me not to write them…

        I was initially not going to write it, and then I thought it would be possibly quite useful and informative to have a) an outsider view on the Greek health service and b) an account of the experience of this sort of thing on the road…

        • I’m glad you added this, although quite frankly I assumed you had done exactly that. 🙂 I appreciate you sharing it. I find some people’s “rah-rah – everything’s always great and well, perfect really while being location independent, trying. Nobody’s life is perfect and it makes it hard to know what to trust and what to discount. So, thank you for sharing the bad along with the good and we wish Zac a speedy, uneventful recovery and a lovely trip to see his dad to celebrate. 🙂

  2. Hugs to you both… sending well wishes and all the hope we can muster for a speedy healing.

    • Theodora says:

      Thank you! He seems to be healing well now, and he’s been sunny and good-tempered throughout, but it’s been more of a job and I think will take longer to recuperate from than any of us had anticipated.

  3. :(. I hope the painkillers were rapidly forthcoming and that Zac is feeling much, much better!

    • Theodora says:

      He is feeling a LOT better: very sunny-tempered, but not really going anywhere. We’re basically holed up in Athens while he recuperates. We all assumed he’d be on his back for a day or two then doing some gentle walking — but then we all thought it was the standard minor surgery rather than the lengthier version that he ended up having to have. Thank you.

  4. Ainlay says:

    Oh poor, poor Zac, My son is the same – never, ever cries so I know if he complains it means it is time to go to the emergency room pronto. I know from your facebook posts that he is safely recovering but what a terrible moment – there is nothing so horrible as to see your child in pain.

    As far as the above comment goes – the health care I got in Thailand was as fast and good if not better than anything I could have gotten in America (with health insurance). Pain is pain. You were lucky to have your mom and dad with you though.

    • Theodora says:

      Unfortunately, they weren’t with us the day of the surgery. They were playing “chase the brake pads” with FedEx. But they came in to see him the next day. And, yes, it was really good to have family around.

      I’m glad you had a good experience in Thailand. In most parts of the world, I’d say that doctors are doctors, nurses are nurses, everyone’s trained and everyone cares.

      But, as you say, pain is pain. And we’d all been so focused on getting him into the surgery that I think we underestimated how much pain there would be…

  5. Crystal says:

    Poor Z. My heart broke a little for him reading this.

    • Theodora says:

      He has been super-brave. But it has been a lot more of a big deal than any of us anticipated at the start. Thanks for your kind thoughts…

  6. Kerwin says:

    Amazing Theodora. Rooting for a speedy recovery to you both. You sound so stressed. Thanks for sharing this.

  7. Kristy says:

    Glad to hear Zac is on the mend. Thinking of you guys.

    • Theodora says:

      Thanks, Kristy. It looks like he’s recovered enough to go out for lunch today, so I might even get to inflict the Archaeological Museum on him while we’re in Athens…

  8. John says:

    Theo – glad to hear that Zac is feeling better. You are right about the lottery of the NHS, of course. Some of the hospitals in wealthier areas are very nice. But don’t get ill in Gwynnedd!

    By the way, Zac really is an extraordinary beautiful child. The photo at the top of this article is stunning.

    • Theodora says:

      Thank you, John! I’ll tell him you said so 🙂

      And, yes, agreed on the NHS lottery. We have always been in Hackney, which has one modern teaching hospital and the Royal London, which is where I went for Zac’s birth on the grounds that a) it’s historic and b) my Mum was born there so it would be nice to have them born in the same place. And, of course, the building was falling apart at the seams. Not that, actually, it’s the building that matters. My aunt is the only one of the family who’s had the location to get in one of our really good modern hospitals — but you can get good doctors absolutely anywhere.

  9. John says:

    Oh, and when are you coming back to the Middle Kingdom. And where?

    • Theodora says:

      Well, we have arrrangements in place to meet friends in Beijing after Christmas, and we’re thinking of basing ourselves either in or near a ski resort. Have you ever been to Beidahu? I don’t know if it, or the nearest conurbation, is big enough to have a middle school. Otherwise Harbin or Jilin — Harbin will be easy and has the ice festival, but I quite like the sound of Jilin as being nearer the slopes. Zac will ONLY go to school in China if he’s doing so with the possibility of regular skiing… This is all vaguely visa dependent. I was going to do the application in KL, where they gave us a 3-month tourist visa off the top, but it now looks as though we may be applying from Nepal instead. However, as I understand it, most visas they issue are extendable in practice for the 90 days, and visa runs to Mongolia are easy enough. Are you in China?

  10. john says:

    Yes. I’m in Beijing. Stay in touch if you are coming here. I understand that visas (post a September 1st change in policy) are harder to come by then they used to be (including the need for a letter of invitation from someone in China). And they are having a semi-crackdown on people working on tourist visas. No British currently allowed into Tibet (or this was true at last count – can check) so if that’s still the case when you go to Nepal you may need to explain to them there that you are not trying to go into China that way. I think Jilin is the nearest conurbation to Beidahu (the latter is formally part of the municipality of Jilin). Jilin is massive and will have plenty of schools. Never been there myself, I confess. Harbin is lovely – been a couple of times – or at least was in the late ’90s!

    • Theodora says:

      Thanks, John. I thought the visa crackdown was largely on Yanks?!

      I was wondering whether Nepal would be a bad place to do the entry, precisely because of the whole Tibet thing… Do you think I could ask our Chinese teacher to invite us to China, or does it need to be someone more official? I know they’ve clamped down on the dodgy Hong Kong business visas that they used to churn out at a rate of knots: thing is, I don’t think we’ll have time to do the application in KL now, where they might remember us and be sympatico.

  11. john says:

    I’m not a visa expert, to be honest. You’ll get more accurate and up to date information from other travellers than from me because I’m largely protected from all that stuff. I think there are two things going on. One is an adding to the bureaucracy of a visa application – more documents needed including, as I understand it, a letter of invitation. I don’t know who the letter needs to come from. I would have thought a Chinese friend would be good enough. The second thing is what is known as “San Fei” (your chinese will be good enough to know this stands for three illegals (Feifa). Illegal entry. Illegal work. Illegal overstaying. It’s mostly bluster but they have been pitching up door to door a bit and stopping foreigners on the street. Particularly in Beijing and Shanghai mind. I don’t know about whether or not you will have trouble getting a Chinese visa in Nepal. I do know that of about two months ago (and no reason to think it’s changed) no UK national would get an entry permit for Tibet (including crossing over from Nepal) because David Cameron met the orange monk in May. Let me know on Facebook if you have any more questions (‘cos I can’t work out how to get alerts that you’ve responded here)

    • Theodora says:

      Thanks! I’ve been talking to some other folks and they seem to think it’s still doable with a visa run to Mongolia. I *think* I’ve just set up the backend so you get a notification when someone replies to your comment (though, hopefully, it’s not going to be retrospective or I’ll be spamming everyone who ever commented here)…