A Very Little House

This is the view from our very little house in the rice fields in Ubud, Bali. We’ve taken it for a month, to study Indonesian formally before we take our pidgin east to Papua, so Z can do some arts, and I can work a little.

Herons and egrets come to the fields every morning, fishing for the frogs who squawk up a storm at night. I guess they nest in the trees around Petulu, flying home with thousands of others every night, to bicker fluffily in the branches before they ball up into bundles of cotton wool.

It’s ploughing time here. So this morning an elderly gentleman, his trousers rolled up past his knees, followed his plough and his oxen barefoot through the sloshing mud. Their sploshing, noisy progress echoed off the walls like gouts of water on a bouncy roof.

There’s a calf and several dogs who come into our little garden most mornings. The calf’s a frisky kid, generally under his parents’ feet when they’re trying to plough. But he doesn’t eat the frangipani flowers in our garden, barely even nibbles at the grass…

He likes to snooze under the palm tree in the corner. But when we cut a fresh pineapple, he followed me, bell jingling, to the terrace steps: which is, it seems, his personal ne plus ultra.

Just across the fields is the ARMA Museum and art gallery. There was a fire dance the night before last. We listened to the choir and watched the blazing torches through our window. Round the corner, we study Indonesian at Starfish, a school set up to teach local children English.

view over rice fields, ubud, bali

It’s weird how not-weird it is being back in Asia after two months in Australia. The velvety heat. The bips of cheery traffic. The offerings of sticky rice and flowers our landlady leaves each morning to the gods and demons to protect us and our house.

The need to cover up. The absence of seatbelts, rules, regulations, health & safety… The hawkers. The carvings. The rainwater surging down the streetside channels and flooding through the paddy fields…

Taking our scooter back from the market, Z perched behind me with delicate “I’m too old to hold my mother’s waist” hands on my shoulder. I drive a motorbike like a Balinese matron: dead centre to my lane, glacial slow, rigid on the corners, oblivious to the frustrated hoots of those who would like to overtake.

It’s a very tranquil place, here. A good place to be. Even when the weather’s cloudy. As it was today. Thanks to Debbie at Delicious Baby for hosting Photo Friday.

*: For any aspirant digital nomads out there, the rental is US$350 for one month. I should, of course, have haggled.

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23 Responses

  1. Brooks says:

    I was going to follow the same plan and camp out here for awhile myself, but have changed course (again) and will be moving on shortly. I hope you enjoy your time in Ubud and I’ll be interested to see it again through your eyes.

  2. Adam @ SitDownDisco says:

    Sounds positively dreamy! I’ll be heading back that way soon enough and would love to rent a place like you have. Quite close to one of my favourite places to have breakfast at Kakiang Bakery too!

    • admin says:

      I’ll have to check out Kakiang Bakery. Become slightly addicted to the deli across the road already…

  3. Nicole says:

    Can I be you for a couple weeks? Would love to be there, have my kids in art classes, smell the frangipani (my favorite flower!). $350? Nice. But, all that sitting water… mosquitos?

  4. oh my – i’d LOVE to be there. i’m putting it on our list to explore. how’s disability access?

    lovely, lovely photo.

    • admin says:

      Indonesia is terrible for disability access. It’s a pretty narrow bumpy path past the rice fields, and a bumpy sort of ramp affair up from the street, plus steps up to the front door. I would guess some of the Balinese Western developments — Balinese style built villas with Western comforts — are easier: if you’re interested in checking out what’s about I’d give http://www.ubudproperty.com a look. They cost more (not immensely much more, though they do tend to be further out of town). But I think they’d be more livable with disability issues.

  5. Kristy says:

    Wish we could come visit…but maybe we can find a way to meet up somewhere with the Burns family!

    • admin says:

      Yes! Let’s hope so. Just trying to work out our schedule for Indonesia at the moment. And how to get to where we want to go, etc…

  6. Ainlay says:

    I did the same thing 25 yrs ago, so glad it is still an available option. Back then it was a two story (two room) bungalow in the hills past Marni Warung (is that still there?). No breakfast included but probably only $100 a month. I still remember the fresh duck eggs I would buy from the farm next door for breakfast.
    Have you been to Cinta bookstore on Monkey Forest road? I built that – say hi to Yoyo (Nyoman Mastra) if you pop in.

    • admin says:

      Yes! Marni Warung is very much still there: we were there on Sunday, doing the bird walk, although I’d imagine it’s unimaginably posh compared to how it was then… And they still have places out in the fields past there, towards Campuhan: as you probably know, Balinese can’t sell their rice fields unless they are in severe danger (disrespecting the ancestors) so development has not run as wild as you might think it has.

      Cinta? No! I haven’t. I’ll check it out…

  7. Snap says:

    I wish I could ride a scooter like you do!…too chicken. Looks like a lovely spot to stop for a while.

    • admin says:

      It is absolutely idyllic. But, believe you me, you don’t want to ride a scooter like I do! I am rigid with terror in traffic, at turns, before embarking on any trip at all… I don’t really think I’m ever going to get confident at it…

  8. Blabber says:

    Looks wonderful.
    Do share how you found the house, as I have been having a hard time finding such cheap accommodation for ourselves for next month. We even abandoned our plan of a month in Ubud for that reason.

    When do you leave? I think that is enough questions for now 😉

    • admin says:

      Well, I found it just by seeing a sign on the street, which is a good way of finding places if you have patience. Other good ways to find cheap stuff? Boards around town, notably at Bintang Supermarket, Bali Buddha, Pondok Pekak learning centre. You can even ask the touts if you’re after somewhere small… Saw a 3-bed advertised half an hour out of town for the same price that we’re paying for this, though you won’t get internet et al… We’re here until after Balinese New Year, then head to Papua… http://www.ubudproperty.com is another good place to look, though they’re not so cheap: you’d need to talk to them about prices &c.

  9. Cheers.
    I figured that these kind of prices are best found on the spot, but was hoping that we can organize something ahead of time. With so many kids it will make it a bit easier.
    One more question, we will stay around Malaysia for awhile, do you have any tips for finding a villa for a month on the cheap? I remember that you traveled there for a bit.

    • admin says:

      We did travel within Malaysia, particularly Penang and Borneo, but weren’t looking for villas. Most affordable, foreigner-friendly accommodation in Penang comes in the form of condo-style apartment blocks — villas are more expensive by a long way — and rentals, short and long-term, are advertised in the extensive English language local press. Same would, I think, be true of KL…

      Malaysian prices, btw, are a bit higher than out here. Buildings with spaces to let seem to have signs on the side of them. So you could simply follow the coast road and find somewhere nice that way. Whereabouts in Malaysia are you interested in?

      Another Ubud rental tip for you: T Houses, Bali, seem to be popular with expats. They’re not cheap, or not ultra-cheap, but they’re highly spoken of.

      • That is about what I had found with my searches, especially for Penang and around that area.
        We will be catching the train from Singapore and going up all the way to Beijing and staying in between. So yes, somewhere on the train line that we could stop for about a month will be great for Malaysia.
        Thanks for the tips, I will check the T Houses.

        • admin says:

          There might well be cheap rentals available local style on the eastern side of the train route. There are definitely cheap spots available in the southern Thailand end of that route, having met people who’ve stayed in that area long-term.

  10. gettingready says:

    Hiya! lovely post. I actually have a question for the wandering Educators who posted about Disability Access. Despite a lot of hunting, I have yet to find a long term travelling family with a disabled child. Wondering if the wandering educators are one such family? If so, I’d like to ask a few questions before we begin our own travels.