10 Things to Know before Driving Outback Australia

1: Farmers Don’t Like Pulling Your Camper Out of Their Road
Outback Australia is a great place to drive a 4WD. If you know how to do it. When a road says “4WD only” it means: “only for drivers of high clearance 4WDs who know how to use a 4WD in different grades on different surfaces, are happy deflating and inflating tyres, and are carrying axes etc. to get them out if they get stuck”.

Take your Britz 4WD Campervan down a dirt road after heavy rain, chew the surface up for months to come before getting stuck and plead with locals (who may be hundreds of kilometres away) to pull you out, and… Well, they don’t like it.

In fact, many of them will charge you. Even if you do know which bits of the wheels you need to fiddle with to put the vehicle into 4WD mode. Or thought you did…

The back of a ute, with P plates, sits on a churned up red dirt road.

2: Don’t Brake for Mirages. It Worries Folk.
It’s a problem that beset all the Australian explorers. Enormous great puddles of imaginary water all across the bush and desert. Though they didn’t have the handy “floodway” signs over every minuscule depression in the road to exacerbate their dehydrated visions.

It is very disconcerting to see 10k of long straight road striped with lakes of dark water. If it hasn’t been raining, they’re mirages. If it has, well, they might or might not be.

Once you start mistaking clumps of grass for speed cops or echidnas on a regular basis, however, it’s probably time to change drivers. Even if you are in NT.

3: Point the Car in a Straight Line and Leave it There
For folk used to European or, heaven forfend, Asian traffic the rigorous, obedient nature of Australian driving can be quite refreshing. Big empty roads. F*ckall on them. Just point the car in the right direction and try not to nod off at the wheel.

If you want to do anything adventurous, say, change lanes (should there be one), overtake or, erm, not overshoot the only turnoff in several hundred kilometres, it’s wise to leave plenty of time and space for anyone behind you to catch up on what you’re doing.

Deviate from a straight line and constant speed and someone who’s driven 500k on an empty stomach and a steaming hangover’s going to go right into the back of you

big truck carrying industrial machinery in outback australia

4: Leave A Zillion Miles Clear When Overtaking
Roadtrains are trucks. Big, BIG truck, towing up to four equally outsize trailers. They brake for no one, and even if they did, it would take a good few kilometres for them to stop. Don’t try and overtake one of these without at least 2.5k of clear road ahead of you, and ideally a designated overtaking lane in which to do it.

In general, allow even an average sized vehicle as much space as you’d leave a double lorry in more congested climates. And if someone’s weaving all over the road, don’t pass them until they’ve pulled off for a nap (or to refuel their stubby supplies).

6: Beware of Creeks
Most of the time the average creek is a dry, rocky stream bed. When full beyond overflowing, creeks can have overwhelming force, as seen tragically at Toowoomba in Queensland.

If a creek’s high but passable wait for a 4WD vehicle with a high exhaust to come along. Then follow in its wake.

Creek flooding can wash the road away entirely, take out the edges, or leave the road coated in that super-skiddy bright orange sand they call bull dust in these parts. Where there’s been rain, slow to check the state of the road.

7: Overtaking is a Challenge to a Gentleman’s Manhood
There is nothing that pushes a male Australian driver to and beyond the boundaries of the speed limit than overtaking (ladies! Wearing pink makes this noticeably worse.)

Only attempt to pass another vehicle, however far below the speed limit it is when you pull out, if you’ve got the vavavoom and distance to accelerate harder than they have and keep it up.

8: Jerry Cans Are Your Friend
Don’t go into the Outback without gallons upon gallons of water, in case of breakdown off the beaten track – or even on it. You can wait a long, long time to see another vehicle on the road to Arkaroola, let alone the Oodnadatta Track.

Outside major population centres, such as, err, Darwin, and, um, Alice Springs, petrol costs a fortune. Even if you’re driving roads with gas stations on them, consider carrying a jerry can or two to get you through to the centre. Or pay north of two dollars a litre at some spots.

Feral camels by the Stuart Highway in Outback Australia.

9: Don’t Kill Wildlife: It Kills Your Car
Wild camels! Lovely roos! Lovely, gorgeous, boingy kangaroos… Found in a range of exotic pieces as a semi-permanent roadside decoration in much of Central Australia, grey kangaroos can reach over 2m tall and weigh well over 200kg.

They tend to come out at twilight and after dark, in groups. If you don’t have roo bars (bull bars), they can be lethal, taking out windscreen, radiator, even passengers. If you need to drive at twilight or beyond, drive slow. But don’t swerve to avoid a roo. Just brake.

10: If the Road’s Not Open, You’re Not Going In
In Australia, heavy rain shuts dirt roads — or transforms them from 2WD graded highways to corrugated 4WD goat tracks. Driving on a closed road can cost you thousands of dollars in fines. Check road advisories on the relevant state website before you set out: South Australia, Western Australia and Northern Territory.

Driving the Simpson Desert, currently closed to all traffic after the emergency services got sick of risking their lives saving over-ambitious, under-equipped tourists, can leave you dead. Or with a very big fine.

What are your top tips for driving in Outback Australia? We’re almost in the dead centre of the Red Centre now, and I’d love to hear.

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18 Responses

  1. Snap says:

    If you do break down in the middle of whoop whoop, DON’T LEAVE THE VEHICLE!!!…it’s a form of shelter and easier to spot from the air, than a dead body. If you’re heading to Queensland, take a floatation device…my home state/city is indeed in strife 🙁

    • admin says:

      We’re headed back to Queensland tomorrow, though with Alice expecting 100mm of rain and flooding in Victoria now, it seems like the apocalypse is taking out most of Australia, not just your home state. The scenes from Toowoomba &c look and sound absolutely horrific. But folk in Brissy proper seem to be doing OK. What I didn’t realise is how much agriculture and industry has been wiped out. The death toll, though tragic, is relatively low. But the economic cost…

      Interesting to see your premier crying, too. Not sure a female politician — or any politician, for that matter — could get away with that in Eng-er-land.

  2. Kristy says:

    Sounds like quite an adventure and frankly those road trains scare the cr@p out of me!

  3. i think i’d probably skip this particular road trip. LOL.

  4. Nicole says:

    I can so imagine the overtaking scene, similar in rural areas of the U.S. Quite rewarding when the overtaking is accomplished while wearing pink though, right? 😉

    • admin says:

      Oh, absolutely. Wearing pink and equipped with a 3.5litre V8 engine, the hilly ascent was positively fabulous. (We borrowed my aunt’s car. It’s a good one.)

  5. Another crucial safety tip — pull over for a bit at dusk. The animals can be really hard to see as the light fades and as the day cools they stand on the road because it’s soaked up the heat of the day.
    Best to wait until it’s fully dark when you can see their eyes glow green in the headlights.
    My Dad’s rule for cattle always was that if they had their head down, eating, they were unlikely to suddenly bolt onto the road. But if they had their head up, best to slow right down and be prepared for a suddent turn of speed. Cows are big and heavy and they cause a lot of damage when crashed into.

  6. Do they have speed cameras in the outback? Just curious! I heard a ot of people get caught speeding there.

    • Theodora says:

      No, just cops, generally. Most often around the border from NT to SA where the speed limit goes from 135kph (used to be no limit) to 110kph.

  7. Victoria says:

    We arrived in Perth yesterday after driving down from Port Hedland. This post rang a lot of bells! I’ve been meaning to get in touch because we’re heading to SEA this afternoon. Trying to decide what to do where and wondered if you had any stand out experiences that you think we really shouldn’t miss? I’m going to have a good poke around your blog over the next few days, but any extra advice very welcome.

    • Theodora says:

      Hello! We’ve had a bunch of amazing experiences in SEA. How long do you have? Some, like the dinosaur museum in Savannakhet, Laos, and Pulau Derawan off Indonesian Borneo, are amazing but take time to get to. Bali is good, because compact, so easy to do a lot of stuff in limited time (though the roads are v. congested in the south). Borneo actually amazing altogether. Where do you fly into? The aquarium in BKK is great, and we liked Dreamworld themepark midweek because we could basically have unlimited goes on all the cool stuff…

  8. THE CAMELS. I need to go and see THE CAMELS.

    Also, all those other pictures? Not at all how I envisioned driving into the Outback!

    • Theodora says:

      We got lucky, I think, seeing not just wild camels but wild horses (called “brumbies” there). I need to write up that trip, actually. Amazing things, like hot pink salt lakes, crazy junkyard space alien constructions. Maybe, just maybe, you’ve given me the push I need to do it!